Japanese Honourifics

This is just a quick post to explain something about the Japanese language (for those who are interested).

In English we tend to use people’s titles before their surname when addressing them: Mr Smith, Mrs Constantinopoulos, Ms Richardson-Green, Reverend Chan, etc. When we refer to someone informally, we usually just use their first name.

In the Japanese language the family name always comes first. Tanaka Hiroshi for example is a man named Hiroshi from the Tanaka family. This is easy enough except that even amongst friends and coworkers Japanese people tend not to use first names. Many Japanese people are more likely to use the full name of a person, rather than just a given name to differentiate between two different people with the same family name.

In Japanese, the equivalent of our usage of “Mr”, “Ms”, etc. depends more on level of formality than on marriage status:

sama (様): probably the most formal title you will hear in daily conversation. Can be used for men or women. Used as a suffix on a name to express respect for the person. Sometimes used jokingly or in a friendly/mocking way between close friends. (Tanaka-sama)
san (さん): the most commonly used (and most famous) honourific in Japanese. Can be seen as the equivalent to our honourifics in English (Mr, Mrs, Ms, etc). Used to express respect, but equality. Unlike “-sama“, you are not necessarily putting the other person above you when using this honourific. Again, used after the family name (Tanaka-san)
chan (ちゃん): this suffix is usually used on the given name, most often with girls. Often used with a shortened form of the name, it adds a “cute” feeling and a feeling of friendliness to the address. It can also be used with very young boys, and men will often use it when shortening their names, or referring to very close friends. The equivalent in English would be changing Tom to Tommy. In our above example, Mr Tanaka might be known to his friends as Hiro-chan.
kun (君): this example is used almost exclusively for boys under the age of twelve. It is an affectionate term used after the given name. Some older men will refer to their juniors using this term in an affectionate fatherly sort of way. It almost corresponds to the old usage of “master” as a title for boys in English. (Hiroshi-kun)

The most difficult thing about this is remembering to use the family name first. As westerners usually introduce ourselves with our given name first, this often creates confusion with the Japanese who will then call us by our given name, followed by “-san“, ” Tom-san” in my case. This gets even more confusing when they attempt this usage in English and I become “Mr Tom”. It feels like someone has tried using Google translate and failed miserably.

Although as a foreigner and a guest in this country, I don’t mind when the Japanese make mistakes with their English and call me strange names, it is important for foreigners here to attempt to use the honourific system correctly. Using “-kun” on the CEO of a company could cause great offence and even lose you a contract. Also it is good to remember, please never use any of these when referring to yourself. It is considered very arrogant an unnecessary.

It all seems rather complicated from the outside, but anyone using Japanese should be able to pick it up quite quickly. For anyone else, when in doubt, “-san” is always a safe bet.

A letter home: part 3

Beloved ones,

Matt’s eyes lit up like I had never seen them before: “It isn’t just like the start of Spring, it’s like the trees are pushing the last of the winter out through their branches as flowers!”Sakura (cherry blossom) season was here. The whole season lasts only two or three weeks and is so hard to describe. I wish saying “it is cold and there are lots of blossoms” could actually relay the feeling of watching the country wake up with excitement after the winter. People are so happy, everything is white and pink, and all of a sudden, it is like someone has taken the world off pause.

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The parks fill with people having picnics in the day and the evenings. There is live music, singing, sake, laughing and lots of food. All this just for hanami, the flower viewing festival. What a beautiful time to be in Japan.

The biggest hanami area in Tokyo is probably Ueno park, so we decided to go there for a day to check out the blossoms. We weren’t disappointed.

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Around this time we decided that as we were spending too much money, both on exploring and buying all the things we needed for our new life abroad, it was time to apply for some work. First up, we needed mobile phones.

Now, to get a mobile phone in Japan, there are many different companies you can choose from. All of them offer mobile phones on plans including limited use of the internet on contracts of two years and longer. As we are in Japan on working holiday visas, that can be extended for up to a maximum of 18 months, we decided to go for the cheaper prepaid option. It took us visits to over 15 stores, over two hours of phone calls, and multiple online orders (that never came) before finally we heard that the Softbank (mobile phone company) store at the airport would be able to help us. We made the trip out to Haneda and found the store. They did sell prepaid phones, but “today was a little difficult… Perhaps we might like to come back in a week?” So another week passed before we finally had our phones. They are essentially one of those 30 dollar phones you can buy from the cigarette counter at your local supermarket. Only they cost 300 dollars, cannot be used outside of Japan, and can only SMS people using the same phone company. Anyhow, at least we got phones in the end, even if it did take three weeks. We also signed up for a “pocket WiFi” device, that we carry around in our bag so as we can use the internet wherever we are. This is a necessity for anyone travelling here because there is almost no free WiFi in Japan.

With this sorted, our daily lives were basically revolving around exploring Kawasaki, spending time with my amazing host family and applying for jobs. As no one was replying to our applications (some wrote back three or four months later), we decided to celebrate my birthday by spending a few days up in the mountains of Nikko.

More on that next time.
Until then,
Let yourself get lost for a while.

Tom

A letter home: part 2

Beloved Ones,

During my year on exchange in high school, I was lucky enough to go to school in the ancient capital of Kamakura, just 30 minutes south of Yokohama city. As this is still the cultural capital of the Kanto region, taking Matt to see this beautiful town was first on my list of things to do.

The most famous sight in Kamakura is the Great Buddha, or Daibutsu, situated close to my high school, which can either be reached by tram or a short hike through the mountains. We decided to take the mountain trail, and came across some beautiful shrines on the way, one dedicated to Inari-sama and her tricky kitsune foxes, and one to Benzaiten, the Japanese form of Saraswati, the Indian Goddess of all flowing things: water, music, money and inspiration.

Daibutsu was originally housed inside a temple, but the temple was washed away in a tsunami many years ago. The Great Buddha himself still stands though. He offers a feeling of peace and stability, even with so many loud Chinese and Thai tourists laughing and praying.

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Matt at Daibutsu

Our favorite temple however was the quiet Zen Buddhist complex of Engakuji. One of the oldest Zen temples in Japan, this is still an active temple with tea ceremony, archery and a cemetery. Many ceremonies are held here every year.

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Click here for a short video of Engakuji Temple.

Aside from this short journey south, we spent a lot of time getting to know Tokyo. The city itself can be roughly divided into three areas.

Northern Tokyo holds on to the old cultural heritage of Japan. After the bombings of WWII, many of the buildings in this area were rebuilt in the pre-war Showa period style. This part of Tokyo has many temples, as well as traditional craft shops, tea shops and stores offering kimono and other traditional Japanese clothing. Although it can be expensive to shop here, just walking around and taking in the atmosphere can be a wonderful experience.

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Central Tokyo holds the business district, the government offices, and the access points to Tokyo bay. The buildings have been said to remind people of New York or Paris, and it is this part of the city that truly reminds you that Tokyo is a “world city” and that the business and money flowing through this part of the country has a direct effect on the world economy. In the centre of this part of town, only a few blocks from Tokyo train station is the Imperial Palace, where the Emperor and his family still live in all their splendour amidst the gardens and ponds of their complex, a huge contrast to the skyscrapers of the business district surrounding them. My favorite part of central Tokyo is definitely the bay, as well as its manmade islands of Daiba and Tsukishima.

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When people think of modern Japan, their thoughts are often of Western Tokyo. The main area of Shinjuku is a vast concrete jungle by day and a neon wilderness at night. East Shinjuku is home to Kabuki cho: Tokyo’s major red light district, Nichome: the gay district, the club scene, the strip clubs and a large amount of other shady establishments meant to give the “salaryman” or “OL (office lady)” somewhere to relax after a long day in the office. Although this area is usually safe and entertaining, it was not my favorite part of town. I muched preferred Shibuya, a few stations away.

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Shibuya is famous for its major pedestrian crossing, where hundreds of people stand outside the station waiting for the lights to change. This is easily the busiest part of Tokyo, and also the most trendy. People in their 20s and 30s love this part of town for its fashion, food, music and bars. Whether on the crowded streets near the station or in a surprisingly leafy and quiet backstreet, Shibuya was always a nice place to be.


The main crossing is actually the second crossing (in the background of this video).

The suburb next to Shibuya is one of the most famous: Harajuku. Known internationally as the fashion capital of Japan, it is more the alternative fashion capital. Most popular with teenagers, the streets are filled with candy stores and crepe vendors as well as overpriced Gothic Lolita clothing and some awesome vintage stores. I must admit, Harajuku did not have the charm I remember it having ten years ago. The tourist presence there was huge (thanks Gwen Stefani), and the only people we saw in full Harajuku fashion were western women in their twenties. After spending so much time here on my exchange, I almost expected a “coming home” feeling from Harajuku, but either it has lost some of its charm, or I have just grown up a little. It was still nice to check out some of the shops and wander the back streets, but it certainly wasn’t my favorite place to hang out anymore.

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We explored for a few weeks, and a bit of the chill had left the air. Sakura season was on its way.

Until next time
Let yourself get lost for a while

Tom

A letter home

Beloved ones,

It has been just over seven months since we left Australia. Time has wound his tendrils around us in that magical way he does, making us feel like we have barely been here a week, and yet making it seem like our lives back in Australia were so long ago as to be just dreams. A mixture of this beautiful phenomenon, as well as being busy discovering our new home, and of course a good dose of laziness, means that it is only now, seven months into our new lives, that I am writing an update to you on how our journey has progressed.

It might take a few entries to catch us all up, but let’s start from the beginning and see how we go…

Arriving in early spring (on the day of the equinox actually) was a well thought out idea. The feeling of a new life was in the air for everyone, not just us. The Japanese are more in tune with the seasons than any other people I have encountered. It is strange seeing this connection in such a modern culture that is detached in so many other ways. We arrived to cold misty rain which made the small amounts of green in northern Tokyo almost glow in the spring light. The whole country was getting ready to wake up and everyone was excited to see the first cherry blossoms, the sign that winter would finally be over.

We had decided to stay in an older (and quite touristy) part of Northern Tokyo called Asakusa. Matt had never been overseas before, and I thought seeing this unusual mix of traditional and modern would be a good first experience in Japan. I also thought, since we were planning on staying here for so long, it would be fair to give Japan the chance to let itself be seen the way it wanted to be seen.

Asakusa is very much a place where Japan is showing the face it wants outsiders to see.

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After getting set up in our traditional inn, we went to the local temple, the famous Sensoji temple, to greet the spirits and Buddhas that live there and ask for protection and blessings on our travels. Here I introduced Matt to two special Japanese Kami (spirits). Jizō-sama is the Boddhisatva (similar to a Buddhist saint) who protects travellers and children, and Inari-sama is the indigenous Japanese spirit of rice, money, business and harvest. They have both been a big part of our lives since that first day, and so I’ll be sure to write on them in the future.

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Returning to the house I lived in on my exchange in 2003 was so strange. My heart was pounding as we walked towards the house. 9 months living here had made these people like my second family. A lot can change in 11 years and I was afraid that maybe it had been too long, that we wouldn’t have the connection we once had. When my host mother, who I have always called Mama, opened the door though and said “welcome home!” in the way that she always had, I knew everything was going to be alright. Grandma ushered us up to my old bedroom and after we had unpacked a little we went downstairs to talk to Papa about how much had changed in the last decade. Not much as it had turned out. Papa was 60 now and looked exactly the same as always. Mama hadn’t changed either. Even the teatowel with the edging crocheted by my grandmother in Australia was still hanging in the bathroom, next to sprigs from the euchalyptus tree that we planted a decade ago when i was homesick, still growing outside.

My host sister Ayumi who is six months older than me had married the year before and had moved into her new house with her husband just around the corner. When we were shown her wedding video and her family were all hugging instead of the traditional Japanese bowing used in formal occasions, she explained that when I left Japan, I had left them with the habit of hugging. They really believe it made them much closer as a family. I couldnt have been happier to hear about this accidental gift that I had left. By the end of the night we were settled in for a fortnight of sightseeing and catch ups before looking for work in the big city.

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A life on the road is long, and so for now I leave the story here.

Until next time

Let yourself get lost for a while

Tom